| To be perfectly honest: Authoring LDraw patterns are a waste of time! Along with curved surfaces called free forms, which are hard to measure and therefore re-engineer, patterns are usually the last thing a new [Ldraw] parts author wants to tackle. Not only because of their complexity, especially when they are applied to a curved surface, but also because they do not add a new valuable brick shape to the LDraw library. On the other hand, a scene without a patterned torso or some stickers would miss a crucial detail: character!
Every author has a different approach to authoring parts and patterns; some just run an image through a program like BMP2DAT or BitSticker and are happy with its pixelated, mosaic-like output, others use professional CAD programs. There’s even someone who blows up the original print in a photocopy machine to measure the coordinates of knots and vertices with a ruler after he has laid a fine grid on it, which isn’t scaled in millimeters or inches but LDUs (LDraw units) where 1 LDU corresponds to 0.4 mm or 0.016 inch.
My way
The process I’m going to describe was formulated back in 2002 when I authored my first pattern: the ”Classic Space Logo“. It took quite a bit to perfect the way I transform a picture into LDraw code and other part authors might consider it laborious, but I cannot imagine doing patterns like ‘3754p01 - Brick 1 x 6 x 5 with Rocket Launch Pattern’ or ‘3069bpw0 - Tile 1 x 2 with “Wanted - Flatfoot Thomsen” Pattern’ in a different way.
Step one: “Scan 2 vector graphics”
To get some data I can later elaborate on in an editor, I usually take a 600 or 800 dpi high resolution scan to be used as reference in a vector graphics program where I re-draw the outlines of the different colors. It gives me a first overview, makes me aware of critical sections I have to take care of once I edit the pattern in my CAD program and also gives me the chance to correct gaps or offsets caused by print misalignments during the different color runs. The caveat is that I cannot create some sort of wireframe like the one you can find in a coloring book and fill in the color. I have to make sure that every path is closed, that there are no overlaps and more important that the single shapes do not have holes. The simplest way to achieve this is to separate each color into a separate layer and export every layer as a stand-alone object.
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